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September 26, 2003
|Livingstone visited Nkhotakhota on his explorations for the source of the Nile in 1863. Not much else has arrived in this village since. We sit around and watch the villagers gawk back at us.|
|There's no such thing as a low key dinner in a small village. The villagers come and stare while you eat. The sobering moment came at the end of the dinner, when we pushed away our plates and the kids came over and grabbed the leftovers, scooping up rice with their bare hands.|
We stayed at the Pic 'n Pay Guesthouse - would you believe they had cable TV.
A ferryboat arrived at midnight. We rowed out to it in the dark, along with a hundred other people overloading a small rowboat. Then we slept on the deck, cheek-to-cheek with the other passengers, huddled like refugees.