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September 14, 2003

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We know Lusaka is the capital of Zambia because it's represented by a star on the map. We wouldn't know from being here because it looks like a forgotton corner. Lusaka is a jumbled collection of low-rise buildings - penny arcade shops, cafes, a supermarket, and a bank - that ramble along the main street, Cairo road. Smaller asphalt roads connect the suburban homes which use more barbed wire on their fences than a maximum security prison. Two roundabouts serve as major landmarks, the North End and South End. To the East, across the traintracks, huddle the government buildings and embassies. To the West huddle the slums. We stay at Chachacha backpackers where all of the tourists gather for a beer.