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October 12, 2003

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This boat is called the MV Liemba and it's been sailing on this lake since WWI. In those days Tanzania was called Tanganyika and Germany administered it as part of their colonial empire.
We sleep on a bench, top deck.
One other ship draws our curiosity because it takes fish, rice, and corn off the Liemba. "Why do villagers take this stuff, don't they have enough already?" we ask the captain. The captain tells us that this is a Burundi smuggler. It will carry these goods illegally into the civil war torn country of Burundi, where the villagers cannot grow food or catch their own fish because of the internal strife.