Here we get close and personal to neighborly Indians; jammed in non-reserved class (read: lowest class) like cattle. Forget that, the Hindus treat cattle like kings. We're jammed elbow-to-elbow, cheek-to-cheek; there's always the unusual on the train and it's usually sitting next to you - but maybe in this country you're the unusual one.

Our train ride ends at Jodpur, a city that continues the Rajasthani tradition of nestling under a massive mountain fort.