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February 7, 2003

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Our Pakistan visa runs out of time today. We'd rather not face the authorities with an expired visa so we make for the Indian border like housewives who have heard there's a sale at Bloomingdales. One crossing remains open along the thousand or so kilometers shared between Pakistan and India.
Life for Jill in Pakistan - one long stare.
The only open border between India and Pakistan has become a tourist attraction. Everyday crowds gather on both sides to watch the flags lowered and the gates shut. The partisan crowds jeer at each other, the guards glower, and everyone gets pumped on nationalistic fervor.
An India guard leads a pro-Indian, anti-Pakistan cheer. A man runs an Indian flag up to the bordergate. There he's met by a Pakistani carrying his flag. A Indian band plays national music and tries to drown out the music coming from the Pakistani band. Each side a mirrors the other. Can you believe this happens everyday?