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August 21, 2003

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In the Masai Mara, wildebeest and zebra herds provide meat for a predator parade. We spent our day watching lions, cheetahs, and hyenas.
We followed a hyena pack to breakfast. They sniffed and zeroed in on a zebra kill left by lions. These dog-like carnivores are actually related to mongooses, not dogs, and they have the most powerful jaws in Africa. Listening to these hyenas crunch bones works up our appetite. Jill likes them because females rank higher than men in hyena society. Kjell doesn't like them because they're all registered Democrats.
Our own breakfast consisted of omelets, toast, and a spectacular view. In this camp the servants outnumber the guests. We have a tent steward, a small army of path chaperones who guard us night and day (the camp isn't fenced), several personal waiters, a drink server, boatman, driver, and camp manager. Jill and I feel overwhelmed, Kjell doesn't mind playing the aristocrat.
Ever wonder what a lion will do if you grab its tail? Yawn.
Tuskless tusker.
Hippos wallow in the river and keep the wildebeest from crossing today.