| We explore Philadelphia, now known as Amman, Jordan. Ptolemy Philadelphius renamed Amman in his own honor during the Hellenic period (circa 300 BC). The Jordanians returned the city's name, mentioned in the Old Testament as the capital of the Ammonites. Today, low, uniform concrete block houses grow like weeds over steep hillsides. This is the hub of all Jordanian traffic and affairs. We walked along an old Roman amphitheatre, through haphazard streets, to the top of a jebel where an old Roman citadel overlooks the city.