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March 12, 2002

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Old hands at bus depots, for $1 we bribe our way past the guards and onto a bus before the morning rush at daybreak. As usual, mayhem rules the bus depot. The bus fills to bursting and we leave the station. In twelve hours, enough time to drive from Maryland to Georgia, we chug-a-chug 500 kilometers from Addis to Harar. There we stay in a hotel on the outskirts of old town where hyenas and dogs howl and bark at each other all night. Harar is known for its hyenas. We rise at midnight and from our balcony we watch wild ones prowl the grounds around our hotel.
Fifteenth century walls enclose old town Harar, approximately an area of 1 sq km. Hyenas live in the hills during the day and come inside the city walls to feed on garbage during the night.
Fly-swatter, sun-hat, reading Holy scripture; a common way to spend the afternoon hours.
The 'Hyena man of Harar' feeds wild hyenas every night.