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January 18, 2002

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We drove from Speke’s camp along Lake Victoria’s eastern shore, over the Mara river, across the border into Kenya, and up to a major Kenyan city called Kisumu. This place surprised us with some of its signs: Hitler’s Auto Parts, Mama Saddam’s hotel. These aren’t bad jokes, we saw these places. Some people muttered ‘Taliban’ at us as we strolled down Kisumu’s crowded streets. A radical element is strong here. There’s a golf course as well, so it seems this town has a little bit of everything.
The Lagoon Reef may not look like much of a hotel, but it's better than Mama Saddam's.
Watching tourists eat is a spectator sport in East Africa.