|We haven't reached Cameroon's coast yet, but we have reached paved highways. Road dust choked us no longer. The condition of our malaria patients has improved. Norm stopped taking quinine and his heart felt better for it. Mayori has toughed through the worst of her malaria fever. We enjoyed a smooth ride to Buea, a town at the base of Mt Cameroon. Guides came to our camp and asked to take us up the mountain. They competed vociferously amongst themselves for our business. We thought a fight might break out among them; business opportunities must be rare. None of the men that presented themselves as guides looked professional. We made our choice, a portly fellow named Ed (a common African name), and hoped for the best.