|Waza National Park is the best place to view animals in West Africa. High in northern Cameroon, separated from the rest of the country by miles of dirt track, Waza's remoteness has protected its animals from poachers. We drove into the park looking for a close encounter. It happened when we found a herd of elephants. A particularly scrappy fellow shook his head, raised his trunk, and charged our truck. We gave ourselves a little space and time to watch the elephants before going back on the road, driving south over a dusty little dirt road that serves as the main highway in northern Cameroon. By nightfall we reached Rhumsiki, a small town on the border with Nigeria.