|After an overnight train where Russian customs agents kept us awake from 2-4 AM by asking questions, checking bags, and eyeing us with long, suspicious stares, we arrived in Tallinn, Estonia at 6:00 AM. We had no idea where to go, only a vague notion that Old Town lay near the train station. Outside the station we spotted city walls, leftovers from Tallinn's medieval days, and trudged into town carrying our backpacks. Estonia's capital city doesn't stir before 8:00, so we walked the streets alone. Old town has narrow, cobblestone streets, and steeply roofed houses. The inner city is almost too cute, and we see a prevalence of English signs for the first time in weeks (Russia displayed very few English signs, sometimes none at all in the smaller towns and cities). Outside the city center stand some ugly concrete buildings from the Soviet era which ended with Estonia's independence 10 years ago. Estonia has destroyed any leftover symbols of Communism; Lenin statues, Communist memorials, and Russian signs all lay in the garbage dump. We've heard that Estonians hold a healthy dislike of all things Russian.