|"Ban de Soleil in the St Tropez" is an obscure reference to an old TV commercial that probably no one else remembers, but it was the only inspiration we needed to visit St Tropez. We weren't disappointed. The town is quaint, maybe a little too upscale and snooty, and we felt lucky to find a deserted beach for the morning. Tanning doesn't trim our waistline, so we decided to hike in the afternoon. As our guide we've been using Lonely Planet's "Walking in France." It's fun to find these hikes in remote areas by looking for small landmarks or trailheads described in the book - at times it feels like a treasure hunt. Today's hike took place near Cassis, a scenic fishing village set amid the calanques, which are steep sided rocky inlets made of bright white limestone that form a startling contrast with the surrounding greeen pine and azure Mediterranean. Always saving money, we stayed for $20 in a hotel/restaurant where our room was in the back near some tables and the kitchen. Since our room had no bathroom we had to use the one in the restaurant. As I walked to it, the most notable thing that distinquished me from the waiter was my toothbrush.