| We spent the day with a rhinoceros. Rhinos are solitary creatures but
this one didn't seem to mind us. It wasn't easy finding him. This morning
we trekked through the bush, hoping to find fresh rhino spoor. Of course
we didn't know how to track rhino, so our rhino guide, Doug, gave us some
training. He pointed out the rhino spoor, dung, and territorial markings.
Turns out that the smell of rhino urine is distinctive but not bad. We
also watched for oxpeckers, a small bird that eats parasites from a rhino's
hide and therefore can give away its position. We tracked our rhino through
bushes and around trees, over ridges and a riverbed, and finally into
a gully. We caught up to him as he finished breakfast. His loud chewing
impressed us. With two long horns and a tough grey hide, he looked like
a dinosaur. Only 2000 black rhinos are left (they're hunted for their
horns), so Doug said he wouldn't shoot if this rhino charged. He explained
this as he brought us within 10 yards of the beast. Don't worry, he said,
we're downwind. |
