|The road to our first game reserve, Amboseli, is studded with termite
hills and dust devils. Monkeys and mongoose greet us in the lodge lobby.
The lodge (not hotel, which means restaurant in Kenya) is luxurious and
attracts a large animal herd. We're surrounded by zebra, wildebeest, and
the occasional Cape buffalo. In our room I couldn't find any toilet paper
until the gazelle in the bathtub pointed to it under the sink. Actually,
a small electric fence, two feet high, is meant to keep animals out, but
we're skeptical about it stopping a 2,000 lb buffalo. We're not even sure
if it is electrified, since it isn't humming and grass blades are touching
it. In any case, our guide has seen a leopard in the compound. He says
they're harmless unless provoked. Luckily, we don't know any leopard jokes.